Timothée Chalamet tends to gaze directly into the future of fashion. There were all those princely sci-fi suits by Haider Ackermann on the Dune campaign trail. There were the big apocalyptic boots last week. But in his latest film, Chalamet is throwing it all the way back to the ‘50s—and unsurprisingly, the era’s style looks just as good on him as any neo-Parisian space tailoring.
While filming Marty Supreme on location in New York City, Chalamet pulled up in a fit that your grandad probably would’ve proudly worn back in the good ol’ days. Which makes sense, given that the movie is about a table tennis champ from back in the good ol’ days. That means boxy fits, big collars, sweater vests, pleated trousers, a neat side part (a far cry from the usual untamed curls that have become his calling card), and a cheeky little mustache.
And it’s both a new and old look for the Oscar nominee. While his roles have veered between the feral (Bones and All), and the fantastical (Wonka) and the fantasy (Dune), period dress from one of menswear’s finest eras is pretty much new territory for the actor. There’s a historical universality here, too: fashion is constantly championing looks from further up the family tree, and the rise of grandpacore is going harder than ever.
Think of the babushka headscarves of those lively TikTok boys. Or the deeply classic tailoring at Drake’s. Or the Fair Isle knits at Howlin, which sources much of its wall from the Scottish Highlands. All three of those can plug directly into the actor’s latest movie (and real life).
So maybe Timothée Chalamet isn’t so far into the future as we thought. In fact, with Marty Supreme, he might be right on time.
This story originally appeared on British GQ.